The Pilgrimage

“It was in the centre of several sacred places, an impregnable fortress in a rich well - watered country. Invitations were sent to all the chiefs and subjects and to every teacher and priest. Reception and dinning rooms were decorated with silk and brocade and was carpeted and lined with velvet. The ceiling was rich satin with gold lace. The throne platform was covered with a rich cloth of gold, and a gilt post was fixed in each corner… Rich and tastefully decorated canopies were raised in the hall for princes and chiefs…” These extract from one of the British Diary exults an account of preparations for the coronation of the Maratha leader Shivaji Maharaj on June 6th 1674, at the hilltop fort of Raigad.

Perched at a height of 2,851 feet, with sheer scarped sides and spreading summit, Raigad had been a prized possession since ancient times. Adding to its physical attributes, it was also perfectly located with the Deccan plateau to the east, the Konkan strip running along the Arabian Sea to the west and with trade routes in proximity. Furthermore, although formidable in size, contours and access, Raigad remained indiscernible as it stood amid rugged topography. With these enviable strategic features, the hill top turned into a trump card that changed hands between rulers of Vijaynagar, the Deccan Sultans, Mughals, Adil Shahis and Siddis, till Maratha King Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj wrested it in 1656.

Once in his grasp, the Maratha leader knew it was the best base to cement his rule in the Deccan. With his tough, sure-footed, trustworthy friends, he had long learnt about the hills, plains, their people and rhythm of life. Nurtured by his religious mother JijaMata, his guardian Dadaji Konddev and spiritual mentor Swami Ramdas, Shivaji Maharaj was thrust into the complex machination of politics at a very young age. In 1647 at the age of 20, with the passing away of his guardian, arrest of his father and his property taken by Bijapur’s commander, the young Shivba was left with no option but to assume a leadership. It was time for him to give the Marathas their own kingdom and capital, to knit them into one identity, to be an undisputable and dependable leader in their hearts and minds as well as shoulder the responsibilities he had carved out for himself.

For this, Shivaji Maharaj turned to Raigad and in 1662 he transferred his capital from Rajgad to Rairi and later renamed it as Raigad or Royal Fort. That intense construction under superlative, well managed supervision if Maratha Architect – Hiroji Indulkar commenced of royal, residential and official buildings, we know only from records and ruins. Yet these are adequate to construct an image of glory of the Maratha Capital during Golden Years of Shivaji Maharaj’s last 16 Yrs. Palaces, offices, a mint, granaries, towers, magazines, 300 stone houses, a vast organized bazaar and water tanks apart from fortification that still remained formidable, were constructed. The mantra “Easy for friends, impossible for foes” underscored the construction of Raigad’s solid walls and bastion, its winding ascent and sinuous gateways.

Two inscriptions are clearly visible at the Jagdishwar Temple. One at the wall of the premises and other at the footstep of the temple. Both are in Modi Scripts. The footstep reads – “Seveche Thhai Tatpar – Hiroji Indulkar” meaning ‘Always at your (king’s) service – Hiroji Indulkar’. Shivaji Maharaj ordered Hiroji to inscribe his name anywhere on the fort so that coming generation will remember the great architect and his superb architecture, and Hiroji chose the right place of the footstep of the temple. Other inscription is known as Shivapatrak and it states the Architectural Glory of the fort and then says ‘May the richness and royalness of the fort remain untarnished till Sun and Moon remain in the skies.” This inscription is in Sanskrit language.

And yet the fortification tells interesting incidents : Chor Darwaja reminds us that when the defenses were completed, Shivaji Maharaj announced a bag of gold and a gold bracelet for anyone who could reach the summit and affix a flag there. A young man made an ascent and was promptly rewarded. And then Hirkani Burj (Bastion) tells us of the milkmaid who had climbed to the fort to sell milk, was delayed and reached the fort gates after they had been closed for the night. The guard refused to open them for her, and as her desperation grew to reach her infant at home, she scrambled down in the darkness along a precipitous path. Her escape inevitably reached to the King’s ears and a bastion was built at the vulnerable point, which has since been called by her name.

By 1664 people in the Deccan – Konkan region had undoubtedly accepted Shivaji Maharaj as their Kind and his place was no less than god in their hearts. King Shivaji struck coins in his name and took control of governance from Raigad, 10 Yrs later he was forced by people, state officials and mother to ascend a throne and to declare himself sovereign king of the Maratha Kingdom. An auspicious date was chosen for coronation and the fort summit hummed with elaborated preparations for the event. 6th June 1674…. Under spiritual blessings from Vedshatri Gagabhatt, Shivaji Maharaj with a gem-encrusted arch in hand, ascended a throne – a gold canopy fringed with pearls and the state umbrella. Soon later guns were fired, and, as arranged before every fort in the kingdom joined in salute, passing it from one to the other. Fireworks blazed, music sounded and every heart in the kingdom screamed out of joy – “Maharajadhiraj Kshyatriyakulavatansa, Sinhasanadhishwar, Gobramhanpratipalak, Hindaviswarajyasansthanpak, Rajmanya Rajshree, Shrimant Shri Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj” meaning ‘King of kings, cream of fighters, throne ascender, guardian of cows and bramhins, founder of hindu kingdom, great king Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj’

Shivaji Maharaj officially became king and adopted a title Chhatrapati.

Soon after the coronation, Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj rode an elephant carriage, to the Jagadishwar temple to pay his respect, flanked by his warriors, and followed by his state officials, officers, the state banner and the golden streamers carried on elephants, other ensigns and flags, war elephants, cavalry….followed by infantry, swordsmen, spearmen, archers, gunners….followed by camels, musicians, drummers, horses of the city police and other – the entire procession moving through the fort to cheers of the crowds. Apart from his own people, Maharaj also met English Ambassador – Henry Oxenden, who presented Shivaji Maharaj with a diamond ring as a token of honor and received a robe of honor in return.

Raigad continued as the Maratha capital till Shivaji Maharaj’s death in 1680, and fittingly his Samadhi (memorial) stands here, in a citadel he built and loved, in the heart of the hills. Though only 53 when he died, in his life and in the forts he built across the coast, on islands and in the Deccan, he filled the Marathas with a deep pride for their motherland. The sentiments lived on to send them forth across vast stretches of India, so much so that the same people, who were relatively unknown before the 17th century, had emerged at the forefront of national politics by the end of the 18th Century.

In 1818 Bajirao Peshwa II sent his wife to Raigad guarded by its tough garrison that included Marathas, Arabs and Pathans. Yet, a relentless assault by British Artillery inflicted a fatal blow to the summit as its palaces, homes and towers fell ruined. Still the Peshwa’s wife held as long as possible, and as Col Prother and his Infantry entered the palace they found her “seated in her robes and state jewels, in the old palace, among burning beams, ashes and all the horrors of fire.” She was escorted to safety with elephants, camels and hundred men, while English took possession of the fort, its treasure of five lakhs of rupees and left it to fade away. The royal fort was completely destroyed and then owned by the wind, rain and shrubs. But LokmanyaTilak fortunately recalled its glory as he awakened a consciousness within the people of the region, a pride in their past and a quest for an independent India.

Later in an archeological excursion, ashes of Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj were found under his Samadhi. These ashes were reburied in full honor and new canopy was raised over it. The great king is still asleep at the place just outside the Jagadishwar temple. His trustworthy architect Hiroji’s carved inscription – “Always At your Service” is in front of the Samadhi and the statue of King’s faithful dog is looking at the Samadhi. One can actually feel the very soul of the fort at this place in full moon night. Sitting at this place in such a milky night, one can rewind the spectrum of Maratha’s glory. The soul of the fort unwinds the spirit of Maratha Warriors who fought at the place and one can truly understand the meaning behind the lines from Bhagvat Gita – “How can a man die better than facing his fearful odds, for the ashes of his fathers and temples of his gods”

The songs of coronation, battle cries and the crackling of burning homes are long faded away, but the King’s memories live on. Away from Raigad, artist paint his image, sculptor cast his form in bronze, poet and play writers pen his glories and children create mud forts. Three Hundred and forty years after Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj’s reign, Raigad continues to inspire national pride, a sense of identity as well as adventure and arts. One can not ask for more.