Tuesday, July 20, 2010

Qal'at Al Bahrain (Fort of Bahrain)


After spending almost half a day in Bahrain National Museum (BNM), I landed up at Qal’at Al-Bahrain and its site museum. BNM drew a clear picture of Bahrain’s rich history in my mind while Qal’at Al-Bahrain and its site museum painted it with wealthy crayons.

Qal’at Al-Bahrain is Bahrain’s most important and distinguished archaeological site in the Arabian Peninsula, with remains dating from 2500 B.C. until the period of Portuguese occupation in the 16th century. It is a true reflection of Bahrain through the ages, with remains of successive civilizations and cities neatly piled up on one another in what archaeologists refer to as ‘Startigraphy’ – it is all visible here. Due to its unique attributes, Qal’at Al-Bahrain has been designated by UNESCO as a world heritage site. Over the past 50 years, the successive archeological expedition (Danish and French) have progressively revealed the key importance of Qal’at Al-Bahrain and its long settlement history. Next to the massive fort that crowns the site today, the importance of the site relates to the number of settlements testifying to almost 4000 years of continuous human occupation (2000 B.C – 17 Century A.D).

The natural access channel to Qal’at Al-Bahrain and its strategic positioning made this site into a privileged entrance point for economic exchange. This function must have reinforced its role as the capital of Dilmun – the most important ancient civilization of the Gulf from the end of 3rd to the middle of the first millennium B.C. – and a prominent trading post linking Mesopotamia, Persia, Eastern Arabia, Central Asia and the Indus Valley Civilization. In the Hellenistic period, the settlement lost its capital status but nevertheless remains one of the island’s most important cities.

The regional political upheavals during the Islamic period have close affected the settlement which became subject for international rivalry. The successive building stages and continuous buttressing of the fortress from the 13th to the 16th century A.D. reflect the changing socio-political situation.
Before entering the fort, it is recommended to have a look at the site museum. The site museum opened to the public in Feb2008. It was designed by world-renowned Wohlert Arkitekter and sponsored by Arcapita Investment Bank. Its location along the waterfront proximity to the palm groves, endows it with a stunning location overlooking the archaeological site.

The display area consists of 5 exhibition halls organized around a massive wall- Tell Wall. The 8 meters wall recreates the different archaeological layers recovered on site and constitutes a significant backdrop to the exhibit. The 500 displayed artifacts relate the long settlement history of the site, once the Capital of Dilmun and its ancient harbor.


Before leaving the site museum and heading towards fort, I asked the guided tour. However, the museum offered me an Audio Guide device which has preloaded audios regarding all points of interest in the area. The device itself is a guide. It comes with a map which enables you to navigate to any place and provides excellent information of 4000 yr old rich history …… from Dilmun (oldest civilization in Arabian Peninsula parallel to Indus Valley Civilization) to --> Greek Era when the region was the part of the dynasty of ‘Alexander the Great’ to --> the Islamic and Portuguese Era.

Here is the brief history of the region:

Early Dilmun (2200 – 1750 B.C.):
The first city “City I” (2200 B.C.) was a small settlement organized on oasis agriculture, hunting and fishing. The archaeological material discovered testifies to the trade connection with Sumer, Oamn and Indus valley civilization. The settlement progressively grew and flourished in the next century.
In fact, “City II” (2050 to 1750 B.C.) was well fortified city covering a surface of 12 to 15 hectors. The archaeological excavations uncovered a group of monumental architecture which has been defined as a palace. The settlement prospered for several hundred years and enjoyed significant regional trade contracts.

Middle Dilmun (1750 – 900 B.C.):
Towards the middle of the 15th century B.C. the site was occupied by settlers from Mesopotamia – the Kessites. Archaeological work uncovered the residence of the new governors which was probably settled in the restored palace of the former kings of Dilmun. The palatial complex housed an active administration as is attested by the recovered archive. A large number of hundred cuneiform tables written in Akkadian language document the political and commercial transaction of the Kassite administration. After its destruction by violent fire at the beginning of the 14th century B.C., the palace was occasionally occupied by “squatters”.

Late Dimun (900 – 300 B.C.):
The late Dilmun period is characterized by a new phase of prosperity. Major leveling and re-organization of the area was attested. In particular, a luxurious architectural complex, featuring public and private areas, a central courtyard and elaborate sanitary system, has been attributed to the king Uperi who ruled at the end of 8th century B.C. In the vicinity of the palace, metallurgic workshop and a sanctuary were exposed. Interestingly, more than fifty snake sacrifices, deposited in the bowls under the floor in several areas of the palace were recovered.

Tylos (300 B.C. – 600 A.D.):
During the Hellenistic period, known as Tylos, the island underwent an exceptional phase of prosperity. Although the city lost its status as the island’s capital, it remained a major port for a couple of centuries. The wealth of the settlement and diversified character of the Tylos culture are reflected in the material record and dwellings of the 3rd and 2nd centuries B.C.
The second century A.D. witnessed a progressive abandonment of the settlement. In the 3rd century A.D., a fortress was built north of the settlement and used as an important military-administrative complex during next 2 centuries.

Islamic period (12th to 17th century A.D.):
The settlement of Qal’at Al-Bahrain had probably become a modest fishing village during the first six centuries of the Hegira. It was not until the 12th century A.D. that significant activities were attested. As the former coastal Tylos fortress was converted into commercial warehouse, commercial activity resumed and caused the settlement.



Following political upheavals and shift of powers at the end of the 13th – beginning of the 14th centuries A.D., new fortress was erected under the tutelage of the princes of Hormuz. The new fort covered a large surface and was protected by moat. The fort was constantly restored and reimbursed in the coming years as a result of Portuguese assaults and later Ottomans.
Progressively, as the access channel to the site became too shallow, the maritime traffic was directed to Manama and Qal’at Al-Bahrain site was abandoned.

Information Source – Bahrain National Museum & Qal’at Al-Bahrain site museum

Pearls






Greek Coins excavated from the site.









Remains of original fort in front of Qala't Al Bahrain. This fort was built by Greeks.







I clicked few snaps of Qala't Al Bahrain. Below is the Flash Presentation of the same.



External Link: For excellent audio-visual tours, 3D imagery, maps and in depth information please visit :
http://archive.cyark.org/qalat-albahrain-intro

Monday, July 19, 2010

जीवन वृक्ष


बाहरीनला, शहरापासून दूर, भर वाळवंटात मधोमध एक वृक्ष उभा आहे. गेली ४०० वर्षे ह्या वृक्षाला पाणी कसे मिळते हे एक कोडेच आहे. कारण आसपास पाण्याचा काहीच स्रोत उपलब्ध नाही, एवढेच काय तर ह्या वृक्षाच्या आसपास एकही वनस्पती आढळत नाही. फक्त वैराण वाळवंट. ह्या जागेला ‘ट्री ऑफ लाईफ’ असे नाव आहे. अनेक दिवसांपासून ही जागा पाहायची इच्छा होती.

परवा भर उन्हाचा निघालो. आधीच बहारींनी उन्हाळा म्हणजे काय विचारता? तापमान सुमारे ५२ अंश असेल. आर्द्रता ९० च्या पुढे. अंगाची नुसती लाही लाही होत होती आणि घामाच्या संततधारा. ट्री ऑफ लाईफचा रस्ता वाळवंटातून. जागा शोधता शोधता नाकी नऊ आले. अशा प्रसंगी GPS मार्गदर्शकाची उणीव अगदी प्रकर्षाने भासते. अखेरीस ती जागा सापडली (म्हणजे दूरूनच ओळखता आली कारण त्या ओसाड वाळवंटात एकच झाड उभे दिसले.). वृक्षाचा विस्तार चांगला ऐसपैस आहे. अगदी भक्कम फांद्या, रुंद खोड आणि महत्त्वाचे म्हणजे ह्या उन्हाळ्यात सुद्धा अगदी तजेल हिरवेपणा. एकही पान सुकलेले नाही. सारे काही अगदी टवटवीत. आणि हे सर्व गेली ४०० वर्षे असेच.

५ मिनिटातच मी उकाड्याने हैराण झालो होतो. पण वृक्षाच्या साअवलीत जरा बरे वाटत होते. मनात सहज विचार आला – मी ह्या जागी आलो वातानुकूलित गाडीतून. ५ मिनिटे झाली नाहीत तोच जीव कासावीस झाला आहे. ह्या वृक्षाने असे ४०० उन्हाळे झेलले आहेत आणि अजून किती झेलेल ते माहिती नाही. आव तर अगदी ‘अजुनी यौवनात मी’ असा. पाणी तर नाहीच. तरी ह्या विस्तीर्ण वाळवंटात ह्या तपस्वीची अखंड तपश्चर्या सुरूच.

ह्या वृक्षाने अत्यंत खडतर अशा नैसर्गिक परिस्थितीचा सामना केला असून, ४०० वर्षाचे जीवन अगदी एन्जॉय केले आहे. पाहा अजून कसा टवटवीत दिसतो आहे ते. जीवनाकडून त्याला काहीही अपेक्षा नाहीत. साधी पाण्याचीही अपेक्षा नाही हो. त्याला फक्त जगायचे आहे. आनंदात, सुखात आणि समाधानात. अजून पुढे अनंत शतके आयुष्य उपभोगायचे आहे. ह्या जागेला ट्री ऑफ लाईफ का म्हणतात हे मला तेव्हा अगदी प्रकर्षाने जाणवले. जीवनातल्या अडचणी, प्रोजेक्टच्या साडेसाती, ऑफिसचे टेन्शन, घराच्या अडचणी, इतर अनंत कटकटी ह्यालाच जीवन असे म्हणतात का? कारण तसे पहिले तर सर्वांचे जीवन हे असेच असते. ह्या सगळ्यावर मात करून, आहे ती परिस्थिती स्वीकारून, आनंदी राहून प्रगतीचा आलेख नक्कीच उंचावता येईल. उगीच मनस्ताप करून घेऊन, चिडचिड करून घेऊन आहे ते जीवन उगाच का नासवावे?
 
आज मी काय नि माझी पिढी काय? सर्व जण आय.टी. धारी उत्तम पगाराच्या नोकरीवर असूनही असंतुष्ट. सतत रडारड. सतत नवीन नोकरीचा शोध. स्वप्नांच्या मागे आंधळेपणाने धाव (धाव की हाव?). समाधानी वृत्तीचा अभाव. जीवनात बरेच काही कमावून बरेच काही गमावले आहे असे सातत्याने वाटत राहते. आता अजून किती गमावणार? कधी मला हे आयुष्य समजणार? असंतुष्टता आणि मनस्ताप हाच जीवनाचा पाया. पायाच डळमळीत तर वरचा डोलारा काय टिकणार? कधी मी आनंदी होणार?

त्या ४०० वर्ष पुरातन (की तरुण?) तपस्वीने मला केवळ ५ मिनिटात बरेच काही शिकवले. पाणी ही सर्व सजीवांची मूलभूत गरज. त्या वृक्षाच्या मूलभूत गरजा देखील पूर्ण होत नाहीत. तरीही त्याचा आनंदी जीवन जगायचा अट्टहास दांडगा. एवढेच नाही तर देण्याची वृत्तीही दांडगी. ओसाड वाळवंटात, ५०-५५ अंश तापमानात आलेल्या पाहुण्याचे स्वागत छायेमध्ये (शीतल छाया म्हणू शकत नाही कारण ५२ अंशामध्ये काहीही शीतल नसते. पण खरे सांगतो त्या वृक्षाची सावली नसती तर मी गाडीतून खाली देखील उतरलो नसतो. ५-१० मिनिटे का होईना, मी त्या वातावरणात  तग धरू शकलो ते केवळ ह्या सावलीमुळेच). किती ही निरअहंकारी वृत्ती? आज मी फक्त माझा स्वार्थ पाहतो. खाऊन पिऊन सुखी आहे, सर्व गरजा पुरवल्या जात आहेत, तरीही मन आनंदी नाही. काय म्हणावे आता?

अत्यंत प्रतिकूल परिस्थितीमध्ये आनंदी जगून, जीवनाचे कोडे उलगडवून सांगण्याचा हा ह्या तपस्वीचा एक अट्टहास पाहून खरंच कौतुक वाटले. ट्री ऑफ लाईफ संपूर्ण मानवजाती साठी एका अव्याहत नवचैतन्याचा उर्जास्रोत आहे. नवचैतन्य जे प्रतिकूल परिस्थितीत आनंदी जीवन जगून, स्वउन्नती करून, इतरांसाठी काही करण्याची तळमळ  आणि प्रेरणा पल्लवित करेल.   

जीवन वृक्षा असाच वृद्धिंगत होत राहा. 




गुगल एपीआय ने एम्बेड केलेला नकाशा पहा. वृक्षाच्या आसपास कुठलीही वनस्पती आढळणार नाही.
तसेच सोबतीला एक फोटो.



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