Qal'at Al Bahrain (Fort of Bahrain)

After spending almost half a day in Bahrain National Museum (BNM), I landed up at Qal’at Al-Bahrain and its site museum. BNM drew a clear picture of Bahrain’s rich history in my mind while Qal’at Al-Bahrain and its site museum painted it with wealthy crayons.

Qal’at Al-Bahrain is Bahrain’s most important and distinguished archaeological site in the Arabian Peninsula, with remains dating from 2500 B.C. until the period of Portuguese occupation in the 16th century. It is a true reflection of Bahrain through the ages, with remains of successive civilizations and cities neatly piled up on one another in what archaeologists refer to as ‘Startigraphy’ – it is all visible here. Due to its unique attributes, Qal’at Al-Bahrain has been designated by UNESCO as a world heritage site. Over the past 50 years, the successive archeological expedition (Danish and French) have progressively revealed the key importance of Qal’at Al-Bahrain and its long settlement history. Next to the massive fort that crowns the site today, the importance of the site relates to the number of settlements testifying to almost 4000 years of continuous human occupation (2000 B.C – 17 Century A.D).

The natural access channel to Qal’at Al-Bahrain and its strategic positioning made this site into a privileged entrance point for economic exchange. This function must have reinforced its role as the capital of Dilmun – the most important ancient civilization of the Gulf from the end of 3rd to the middle of the first millennium B.C. – and a prominent trading post linking Mesopotamia, Persia, Eastern Arabia, Central Asia and the Indus Valley Civilization. In the Hellenistic period, the settlement lost its capital status but nevertheless remains one of the island’s most important cities.

The regional political upheavals during the Islamic period have close affected the settlement which became subject for international rivalry. The successive building stages and continuous buttressing of the fortress from the 13th to the 16th century A.D. reflect the changing socio-political situation.
Before entering the fort, it is recommended to have a look at the site museum. The site museum opened to the public in Feb2008. It was designed by world-renowned Wohlert Arkitekter and sponsored by Arcapita Investment Bank. Its location along the waterfront proximity to the palm groves, endows it with a stunning location overlooking the archaeological site.

The display area consists of 5 exhibition halls organized around a massive wall- Tell Wall. The 8 meters wall recreates the different archaeological layers recovered on site and constitutes a significant backdrop to the exhibit. The 500 displayed artifacts relate the long settlement history of the site, once the Capital of Dilmun and its ancient harbor.


Before leaving the site museum and heading towards fort, I asked the guided tour. However, the museum offered me an Audio Guide device which has preloaded audios regarding all points of interest in the area. The device itself is a guide. It comes with a map which enables you to navigate to any place and provides excellent information of 4000 yr old rich history …… from Dilmun (oldest civilization in Arabian Peninsula parallel to Indus Valley Civilization) to --> Greek Era when the region was the part of the dynasty of ‘Alexander the Great’ to --> the Islamic and Portuguese Era.

Here is the brief history of the region:

Early Dilmun (2200 – 1750 B.C.):
The first city “City I” (2200 B.C.) was a small settlement organized on oasis agriculture, hunting and fishing. The archaeological material discovered testifies to the trade connection with Sumer, Oamn and Indus valley civilization. The settlement progressively grew and flourished in the next century.
In fact, “City II” (2050 to 1750 B.C.) was well fortified city covering a surface of 12 to 15 hectors. The archaeological excavations uncovered a group of monumental architecture which has been defined as a palace. The settlement prospered for several hundred years and enjoyed significant regional trade contracts.

Middle Dilmun (1750 – 900 B.C.):
Towards the middle of the 15th century B.C. the site was occupied by settlers from Mesopotamia – the Kessites. Archaeological work uncovered the residence of the new governors which was probably settled in the restored palace of the former kings of Dilmun. The palatial complex housed an active administration as is attested by the recovered archive. A large number of hundred cuneiform tables written in Akkadian language document the political and commercial transaction of the Kassite administration. After its destruction by violent fire at the beginning of the 14th century B.C., the palace was occasionally occupied by “squatters”.

Late Dimun (900 – 300 B.C.):
The late Dilmun period is characterized by a new phase of prosperity. Major leveling and re-organization of the area was attested. In particular, a luxurious architectural complex, featuring public and private areas, a central courtyard and elaborate sanitary system, has been attributed to the king Uperi who ruled at the end of 8th century B.C. In the vicinity of the palace, metallurgic workshop and a sanctuary were exposed. Interestingly, more than fifty snake sacrifices, deposited in the bowls under the floor in several areas of the palace were recovered.

Tylos (300 B.C. – 600 A.D.):
During the Hellenistic period, known as Tylos, the island underwent an exceptional phase of prosperity. Although the city lost its status as the island’s capital, it remained a major port for a couple of centuries. The wealth of the settlement and diversified character of the Tylos culture are reflected in the material record and dwellings of the 3rd and 2nd centuries B.C.
The second century A.D. witnessed a progressive abandonment of the settlement. In the 3rd century A.D., a fortress was built north of the settlement and used as an important military-administrative complex during next 2 centuries.

Islamic period (12th to 17th century A.D.):
The settlement of Qal’at Al-Bahrain had probably become a modest fishing village during the first six centuries of the Hegira. It was not until the 12th century A.D. that significant activities were attested. As the former coastal Tylos fortress was converted into commercial warehouse, commercial activity resumed and caused the settlement.



Following political upheavals and shift of powers at the end of the 13th – beginning of the 14th centuries A.D., new fortress was erected under the tutelage of the princes of Hormuz. The new fort covered a large surface and was protected by moat. The fort was constantly restored and reimbursed in the coming years as a result of Portuguese assaults and later Ottomans.
Progressively, as the access channel to the site became too shallow, the maritime traffic was directed to Manama and Qal’at Al-Bahrain site was abandoned.

Information Source – Bahrain National Museum & Qal’at Al-Bahrain site museum

Pearls

Greek Coins excavated from the site.

Remains of original fort in front of Qala't Al Bahrain. This fort was built by Greeks.







I clicked few snaps of Qala't Al Bahrain. Below is the Flash Presentation of the same.



External Link: For excellent audio-visual tours, 3D imagery, maps and in depth information please visit :
http://archive.cyark.org/qalat-albahrain-intro

जीवन वृक्ष

बाहरीनला, शहरापासून दूर, भर वाळवंटात मधोमध एक वृक्ष उभा आहे. गेली ४०० वर्षे ह्या वृक्षाला पाणी कसे मिळते हे एक कोडेच आहे. कारण आसपास पाण्याचा काहीच स्रोत उपलब्ध नाही, एवढेच काय तर ह्या वृक्षाच्या आसपास एकही वनस्पती आढळत नाही. फक्त वैराण वाळवंट. ह्या जागेला ‘ट्री ऑफ लाईफ’ असे नाव आहे. अनेक दिवसांपासून ही जागा पाहायची इच्छा होती.

परवा भर उन्हाचा निघालो. आधीच बहारींनी उन्हाळा म्हणजे काय विचारता? तापमान सुमारे ५२ अंश असेल. आर्द्रता ९० च्या पुढे. अंगाची नुसती लाही लाही होत होती आणि घामाच्या संततधारा. ट्री ऑफ लाईफचा रस्ता वाळवंटातून. जागा शोधता शोधता नाकी नऊ आले. अशा प्रसंगी GPS मार्गदर्शकाची उणीव अगदी प्रकर्षाने भासते. अखेरीस ती जागा सापडली (म्हणजे दूरूनच ओळखता आली कारण त्या ओसाड वाळवंटात एकच झाड उभे दिसले.). वृक्षाचा विस्तार चांगला ऐसपैस आहे. अगदी भक्कम फांद्या, रुंद खोड आणि महत्त्वाचे म्हणजे ह्या उन्हाळ्यात सुद्धा अगदी तजेल हिरवेपणा. एकही पान सुकलेले नाही. सारे काही अगदी टवटवीत. आणि हे सर्व गेली ४०० वर्षे असेच.

५ मिनिटातच मी उकाड्याने हैराण झालो होतो. पण वृक्षाच्या साअवलीत जरा बरे वाटत होते. मनात सहज विचार आला – मी ह्या जागी आलो वातानुकूलित गाडीतून. ५ मिनिटे झाली नाहीत तोच जीव कासावीस झाला आहे. ह्या वृक्षाने असे ४०० उन्हाळे झेलले आहेत आणि अजून किती झेलेल ते माहिती नाही. आव तर अगदी ‘अजुनी यौवनात मी’ असा. पाणी तर नाहीच. तरी ह्या विस्तीर्ण वाळवंटात ह्या तपस्वीची अखंड तपश्चर्या सुरूच.

ह्या वृक्षाने अत्यंत खडतर अशा नैसर्गिक परिस्थितीचा सामना केला असून, ४०० वर्षाचे जीवन अगदी एन्जॉय केले आहे. पाहा अजून कसा टवटवीत दिसतो आहे ते. जीवनाकडून त्याला काहीही अपेक्षा नाहीत. साधी पाण्याचीही अपेक्षा नाही हो. त्याला फक्त जगायचे आहे. आनंदात, सुखात आणि समाधानात. अजून पुढे अनंत शतके आयुष्य उपभोगायचे आहे. ह्या जागेला ट्री ऑफ लाईफ का म्हणतात हे मला तेव्हा अगदी प्रकर्षाने जाणवले. जीवनातल्या अडचणी, प्रोजेक्टच्या साडेसाती, ऑफिसचे टेन्शन, घराच्या अडचणी, इतर अनंत कटकटी ह्यालाच जीवन असे म्हणतात का? कारण तसे पहिले तर सर्वांचे जीवन हे असेच असते. ह्या सगळ्यावर मात करून, आहे ती परिस्थिती स्वीकारून, आनंदी राहून प्रगतीचा आलेख नक्कीच उंचावता येईल. उगीच मनस्ताप करून घेऊन, चिडचिड करून घेऊन आहे ते जीवन उगाच का नासवावे?
 

आज मी काय नि माझी पिढी काय? सर्व जण आय.टी. धारी उत्तम पगाराच्या नोकरीवर असूनही असंतुष्ट. सतत रडारड. सतत नवीन नोकरीचा शोध. स्वप्नांच्या मागे आंधळेपणाने धाव (धाव की हाव?). समाधानी वृत्तीचा अभाव. जीवनात बरेच काही कमावून बरेच काही गमावले आहे असे सातत्याने वाटत राहते. आता अजून किती गमावणार? कधी मला हे आयुष्य समजणार? असंतुष्टता आणि मनस्ताप हाच जीवनाचा पाया. पायाच डळमळीत तर वरचा डोलारा काय टिकणार? कधी मी आनंदी होणार?

त्या ४०० वर्ष पुरातन (की तरुण?) तपस्वीने मला केवळ ५ मिनिटात बरेच काही शिकवले. पाणी ही सर्व सजीवांची मूलभूत गरज. त्या वृक्षाच्या मूलभूत गरजा देखील पूर्ण होत नाहीत. तरीही त्याचा आनंदी जीवन जगायचा अट्टहास दांडगा. एवढेच नाही तर देण्याची वृत्तीही दांडगी. ओसाड वाळवंटात, ५०-५५ अंश तापमानात आलेल्या पाहुण्याचे स्वागत छायेमध्ये (शीतल छाया म्हणू शकत नाही कारण ५२ अंशामध्ये काहीही शीतल नसते. पण खरे सांगतो त्या वृक्षाची सावली नसती तर मी गाडीतून खाली देखील उतरलो नसतो. ५-१० मिनिटे का होईना, मी त्या वातावरणात  तग धरू शकलो ते केवळ ह्या सावलीमुळेच). किती ही निरअहंकारी वृत्ती? आज मी फक्त माझा स्वार्थ पाहतो. खाऊन पिऊन सुखी आहे, सर्व गरजा पुरवल्या जात आहेत, तरीही मन आनंदी नाही. काय म्हणावे आता?

अत्यंत प्रतिकूल परिस्थितीमध्ये आनंदी जगून, जीवनाचे कोडे उलगडवून सांगण्याचा हा ह्या तपस्वीचा एक अट्टहास पाहून खरंच कौतुक वाटले. ट्री ऑफ लाईफ संपूर्ण मानवजाती साठी एका अव्याहत नवचैतन्याचा उर्जास्रोत आहे. नवचैतन्य जे प्रतिकूल परिस्थितीत आनंदी जीवन जगून, स्वउन्नती करून, इतरांसाठी काही करण्याची तळमळ  आणि प्रेरणा पल्लवित करेल.   

जीवन वृक्षा असाच वृद्धिंगत होत राहा. 




गुगल एपीआय ने एम्बेड केलेला नकाशा पहा. वृक्षाच्या आसपास कुठलीही वनस्पती आढळणार नाही.
तसेच सोबतीला एक फोटो.

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Starry Night Camping

Sky gazing had been my passion since school days. I was highly ardent for Astrophysics and Astronomy. With a comprehensive study material, habitual visits to scientific libraries and Astrophysics clubs in the city, I always dreamt of endeavoring something distinguished in Astrophysics Research. As I grew up, I rather preferred the engineering profession. As years passed by, the passion became the sideline and eventually I lost the touch of my favorite subject.

But I cannot forget my first Telescope, gifted to me by my mother to nourish the passion. I also remember the first licensed software - 'The Starry Night Basics', which I purchased from the planetarium library. It had an enormous database of celestial objects with real time & historic tracking and 3D views, live sky maps and many more. These two things changed my vision to look at the huge universe. I got another eye to look (using telescope) and another angle to poke (using software). My uncle added a magnification factor to this vision, by gifting me the best of the Astronomy books. When I look back at the notes and the calculations I made, I wonder about my passion - How it could fade out, over the scale of time?

Well, today when I go for overnight camping, my eyes look for the open grounds where I can lay under the starry dome and view entire universe without any obstruction. I like recollecting my old memories, finding various constellation and stars. It simply overwhelms all the thoughts.... bringing sheer peace of mind. The best part of such a wilderness camping is - you get a chance to propel deeper through the woods to the rivers, to the gorges, to the peaks, into the skies and up to the universe. As a result of that, an inferiority complex shatters the egoism of the human existence. How much is the expanse of the universe? Well, the answer won't come out so easily, but let me try out by giving some practical figures and examples:

•Our nearest celestial object - The Moon is 238857 miles away from us. This distance is almost 30 times Earth's diameter.

•Our Sun is the nearest star. At 93 million miles, the Sun provides the warmth that has allowed life to evolve on Earth. (Has life evolved elsewhere?)

•The furthest human object is the space probe Voyager 1. Launched in 1977, it is now more than twice as far from the Earth as Pluto.

•The 'Pleiades' star cluster is 400 light years away. One light year is 6 trillion miles.

•Deneb, in the constellation Cygnus, is one of the most distant stars you can see by eye. It takes light from Deneb 1600 years to reach us.

•This view toward the center of our galaxy shows the Milky Way as an immense city of stars. Our Sun and all the stars in the night sky are its residents.

•The furthest thing you can see by unaided eye is the Andromeda Galaxy, the nearest large galaxy to our Milky Way. Light from Andromeda takes 2 million years to reach us!

•The deeper we see into space, the more galaxies we discover. Only a few points of light in this image come from stars in our own Milky Way; everything else is a distant galaxy. (This image below, taken by the Hubble Space Telescope, is among the deepest images of the universe ever taken. The faintest and reddest objects in the image are galaxies that formed early in the universe’s history, 600 million years after the Big Bang.)

•Light from the furthest galaxies we can see has taken more than ten billion years to reach us!

There is a limit to what we can see, but is there a limit to what we can understand? And if we try to understand, the imagination numbs the human intelligence. What we see as a marvel of human engineering in TV Shows is simply incomparable with the mega structures that universe delivers.

About a year ago, Sameer suddenly came up with his new gadget...... 8" telescope with accessories. It gave us another reason to plan overnight camping every weekend. We have been to several places for sky gazing, but one of my best camping was with Sameer, Akshay and Durgesh at Warasgaon Table top. The area is extraordinarily beautiful. Akshay had come all the way from Chennai and Durgesh from Banglore. We loaded the bulky telescope bag, camping & cooking kit and set off to Warasgaon early evening.

The food we cooked could have been unacceptable by civilized community, but the campers accepted it cheerfully just as a part of backyard cooking. We truly missed 'barbeques' which are considered as an integrated part of camping. With the fall of dusk, we all enjoyed the hot food and along with live 'Russell Peters' performed by Durgesh......two hours of sheer laugh. In between, we kept a close eye on the sky, waiting for fascinating celestial objects to rise. Especially Saturn, M31 (Andromeda) and Eta Carina. Moon was under continuous observation. By the time these cosmological celebrities arrive at the late night show, we decided to use the available time frame in an innovative and creative manner. We had an idea of 'long exposure' night photography. Durgesh and I went inside the tent; Sameer exposed the camera shutter, and we literally painted interiors of the tent using white head torch LED; while Akshay did the same from outside with yellow conventional light. Parking lights of the vehicle, and white, calm moon light added another magnitude to this experiment. To me, it was a good ab initio lesson in photography.

 

After the mid night coffee session, we focused on the sky map. 8" Telescope provided astounding views of the selected celestial objects. M31 and Orion Cluster were truly magnificent. We spent almost whole night watching the celestial gizmos. My all old memories of the subject overflew my mind. But, I did not want to explain the scientific concepts to my friends as they were enjoying the view of the universe through 8" dimetered eye.

Of the happenings that go on around a camp, I believe that it is the Starry Night that plays the most significant role. Just starring into the twinkling star can send one’s imagination to another world and even into the deepest parts of one’s soul. The expanse of the massive universe brings the ones who look into it back to a time and a place where they once felt the same. However, these are my feelings. For each who looks into the universe, it is different. The universe has more than just the mysteries that people think of; it is truly magical place and creates a psychological impact on the observer.

Early dawn I went to the deep sleep - in the middle of the tar road, and I was positively sure about the non existence of a single vehicle in the region.

I was awakened by the dew damp covering my entire sleeping bag when the eastern skies opened up with red paint. Sluggish & Yawned, I went on the edge of table top to view the sun rise. By the time, Sameer woke up, and his photographic eyes captured one million sun risers through the dew drops covering entire vehicle body. That was an 'award winning' photograph.

On our return journey, we stopped at Temghar dam to capture few more scenic shots. The refection of the lone tree wood standing right in the middle of the backwater against the backdrop of blue sky and dam wall provoked a rational thought in my mind - Life is a mirror of your actions. It always gives you back what you give out. It is not a coincidence, but a mirror of your own doings. Sameer captured my thoughts perfectly in the photograph. Another 'award winning' snap.

So going back to Astronomy,


Well, recently Google released its Sky, Moon and Mars database with unbelievable 3D imagery with minute details. Now we can have a direct access to the photographs shared by Hubble Space scope, Chandra and other equipments in a single package as a part of Google database. I would like to share few of my favorite Celestial objects which I've been seeing for years. They still look mysterious to my eyes. Google Sky API has made it easy to share with others. Have a look at the guided tour below showing Eta Carina, Andromeda, Orion Nebula and the brightest star in the sky 'The Sirrius B' (after our Sun). But when you look at them practically, especially from the place like Warasgaon Tabletop, the scenario is entirely different, and joy is purely unexplainable.

The second guided tour is 'Apollo 11' mission to the Moon. The tour is created by Sean Aksay.  Unfortunetly I could not extract the voice. But it is Worth Watching.

साद सह्याद्रीची

ह्या कथानकावर कोण किती विश्वास ठेवेल हे मला माहीत नाही, आणि ठेवावा असा माझा आग्रहही नाही. पण जे काही घडले ते माझ्या साठी नक्कीच अद्भुत होते. निसर्ग मनकवडा असतो का? Man Desires - Universe Conspires हे जे म्हणतात ते कितपत खरे आहे? अनेक प्रश्न आणि उत्तरे मात्र शून्य. इयत्ता ७ वी पासून मी अव्याहत हिंडतो आहे. पण गेली ५ वर्षे म्हणजे सुवर्णकाळ. गड, किल्ले, डोंगर, घाट हे जीवनातले महत्त्वाचे घटक झाले. रोटी, कपडा, मकान प्रमाणेच बॅकपॅकिंग आणि ट्रेक्स ही जीवनातली मूलभूत गरज झाली. जे मित्र भेटले ते ही सर्व असेच. पायाला सतत भिंगरी लागलेली. मग त्यातूनच Private Wilderness ही संकल्पना उदयास आली. पण मध्यंतरी एक अद्भुत घटना घडली. त्याचे असे झाले -----


साधरणतः दोन वर्षां पूर्वीची गोष्ट असेल. ऑफिस मध्ये दुपारी चहा घेता घेता अचानक पणे प्रोजेक्ट मॅनेजरने विचारले - "तानाजी मालुसरेंचे गाव कोणते रे? "

ह्या जरा Out of the Box प्रश्नामुळे मी हडबडलोच. नक्की काय झाले आमच्या मॅनेजर ला? आमचा वीकएंण्ड ट्रेक चा उत्साह आणि बॅकपॅकिंग ट्रेल्स बद्दल मॅनेजर्सनी अनेकदा विचारणा केली होती, पण हा असा ऐतिहासिक प्रश्न मी प्रथमच ऐकत होतो. मलाही पटकन आठवेना. म्हटले, "जरा पाहून सांगतो.

मित्राला फोन करून खात्री करून घेतली आणि मॅनेजरला सांगून टाकले - "उमरठ".

तर मॅनेजरचा आणि एक प्रतिप्रश्न - "महाबळेश्वर च्या पायथ्याचे ना? कोंकणांतले? "

म्हटले "हो तेच. "

"तुला माहीत आहे का - तानाजी मालुसरेंचा पार्थिव देह कोणत्या वाटेने कोंकणांत नेला ते? पानशेत बॅकवॉटरच्या मागे रुट आहे तो. कोंकणात उतरते ती वाट. "


मॅनेजरने माझी झोपच उडवली. अनपेक्षित असा प्रश्न. उत्तर मलाही माहीत नव्हते, ना माझ्या इतर बॅकपॅकर्स मित्रांना. युद्धपातळीवर मोहीम हाती घेतली. ही जागा शोधलीच पाहिजे. पानशेत परिसर तसा हिंडून झाला होताच, पण हे कुठेच ऐकायला मिळाले नव्हते.

पानशेतच्या मागे घाटमाथ्यावर कोकणदिवा शिखर आहे. त्याला खेटूनच कावळ्या घाट खाली कोंकणात उतरतो. मला वाटले की हाच तो ऐतिहासिक घाट. कारण ह्या वाटेने खाली उतरले की समोर रायगड उभा. तेथून महाड - उमरठ असा तानाजी मालुसरेंच्या पार्थिवाचा प्रवास झाला असावा. ह्या वाटेला फारसे कुणी जात नाही आजकाल, इतकेच काय, तर पानशेत पासून पुढे धड गाडीवाटच नाही (हल्लीच हा रस्ता सुधारला आहे). कच्चा रस्ता मागे घोळ गावापर्यंत जातो. हा ४५ कि. मी चा प्रवास म्हणजे Bike and Biker दोघांचे पण patience पाहतो. Dirt Biking / Mud Biking / Dessert Biking असा तिहेरी प्रवास संपवून घोळ पर्यंत पोहोचताना नाकी नऊ येतात (त्यात शेवटी शेवटी तर Bike हातात घेऊन वर चढवावी लागते. भुसभुशीत माती मधून टायर पुढे सरकायचे नावच घेत नाहीत).

१ मे चा दिवस. सकाळीच निघालो. कावळ्या घाट पाहायचाच होता. घोळ गावी पोहोचेसतोवर सूर्यनारायण चांगलाच वर आला होता. असह्य उकाडा. Dirt Biking मुळे bike आणि मी, दोघेही लाल झालो होतो. पण कोकणदिवा - कावळ्या घाट पाहायचा उत्साह जोरदार. घाट मुखाशी पोहोचलो पण खाली कोकणामध्ये उतरलो नाही कारण वेळ नव्हता. पण नक्की हाच का तो घाट? हीच का ती वाट? काहीच कळले नव्हते. फक्त इतकेच माहीत होते की ट्रेक मस्त झाला आहे. रात्रीस परत फिरलो. परत एकदा तो ४५ कि. मी चा प्रवास. अंधारात.

त्यानंतर इतर सर्व घाटवाटांकडे नजर गेली. तानाजी मालुसरेंच्या पार्थिव प्रवासाचे थोडे विस्मरणच झाले. पुढे एकदा वाचनामध्ये (बहुदा गो. नि. दांडेकरांचे 'झुंजार माची') मढेघाटाचा उल्लेख आढळला. तोरण्याच्या मागच्या बाजूस १९ कि. मी दूर. नंतर बरेचदा पानशेत मार्गे पाबेघाटातून तोरणा रस्त्यावर येता जाता -"मढेघाट - ३६ कि. मी. " अशी पाटी वाचनात आली. तानाजी मालुसरेंचे पार्थिव म्हणजेच बोली भाषेत 'मढ' ज्या वाटेने कोंकणात नेले तोच हा ऐतिहासिक मार्ग. इतर वाचनामधून पण हे नक्की झाले होते.

पुढे काही ना काही कारणास्तव मढेघाटात जाणे जमलेच नाही. पण तो घाट पाहायच्या इच्छेत जराही कमी आली नाही. आणि अचानक लाँग टर्म साठी ऑनसाइट जाण्याची वेळ आली. ऑफिसच्या कामामुळे झोप उडाली होतीच. जेव्हा झोप लागायची तेव्हा फक्त डोंगर आणि ट्रेक्सचीच स्वप्ने पडायची. हे सर्व एक वर्षा साठी सोडून जावे लागणार ह्या विचारानेच धडकी भरायची. गो. नि. दांडेकरांच्या 'रानभुली' मधील मनी प्रमाणेच माझी अवस्था होत चालली होती. नंतर काही दिवसांनी मला जाणवले की, स्वप्नामध्ये एकच जागा फारच ठळकपणे दिसत आहे. नंतर २-३ ठिकाणे ठळक पणे दिसू लागली. एक गड, त्याच्या माथ्यावर पडलेली सायंकाळची सूर्यकिरणे, त्या गडाच्या मागून उगवणारा पौर्णिमेचा पूर्ण चंद्र; अस्ताव्यस्त पसरलेल्या सह्यरांगा, आणि त्यावर पडलेली कोवळी किरणे. ह्यातले कुठलेही दृश्य मी वास्तवात आधी कधीच पाहिले नव्हते. बहुतेक सर्व गडांचे आकार माहीत असल्याने ते ही नीट ओळखता येतात, जे गड पाहिले नाहीत, त्यांचे फोटो नीट लक्षात राहतात (Thanks to 'Sahyadri Companion'); पण ही दृश्ये मला नवीन होती. काहीतरी अद्भुत, न पाहिलेले, अनोळखी. कुठे असेल ही जागा? कोणता हा गड? की सर्वच काल्पनिक?

जाण्याआधी दोन वेळा रायगडाची वारी झाली होतीच. विविध Private Wilderness ना सतत भेटी चालू होत्याच. पण मढेघाटाचा बेत काही केल्या जमून येत नव्हता. सांदण व्हॅली - कारोली घाट - रतनगड करायचा होताच, मुंबईकरांबरोबर प्लॅन झाला होता. त्याआधी वेळ जमवलाच आणि आमच्या बॅकपॅकर समाजामध्ये साद घातली "मढेघाट" म्हणून. दोन डोकी लगेच तयार झाली. पण काही कारणास्तव नाही जमले. दोघेही येऊ शकले नाहीत. मग एकटाच निघालो. पाबेघाट पार करून पलीकडे उतरे पर्यंत नारायणाने पश्चिमार्गक्रमण सुरू केले होते. वेल्ह्यात पोहोचलो. भूक नव्हतीच, पण आम्हा भटक्यांच्या परंपरेला जागून 'तोरणा विहार' मधली एक मिसळ घशाखाली ढकललीच. सूर्यास्ता अगोदर मढेघाट गाठणे गरजेचे होते. १९ किमी..... लागलीच निघालो. पुढे रस्ताही बराच खराब होता. हरपुड फाटा पार करून पुढे आलो.

पुढे काही पॅचेसमध्ये रस्त्याची अवस्था फारच बिकट होती. त्या मोडक्या रस्त्यावर हिंदोळत, अखेर 'केळद'ला पोहोचलो. सह्याद्री घाटमाथ्यावरचे अखेरचे गाव. म्हणजे आता थोडेसेच पुढे गेले की आलाच मढेघाट. अधाशीपणे निघालो. ५ मिनिटांत घाटमाथा आला. गाडी पार्क करून अगदी सह्यकिनाऱ्यावर जाऊन उभा राहिलो. तळ कोंकण न्याहाळीत. विस्तीर्ण पसरलेला कोकणपट्टा, समोर मावळता सूर्य, उजवीकडे खाली कोंकणांत उतरणारी मढेघाटाची पायवाट, आणि डावीकडे....... अरेच्च्या!!! हेच दृश्य मी नुकतेच स्वप्नात पाहिले होते की. (देजावू म्हणतात ते हेच का? )

अस्ताव्यस्त पसरलेल्या सह्यरांगा. त्यांच्या माथ्यावर खेळणारी सायंकाळची मोहक किरणे. म्हणजेच मी स्वप्नात पाहतं असलेली रेंज शिवथरघळची होती तर. मढेघाटातून दिसणारी!! What a pleasent surprise! माझी खात्रीच पटली की स्वप्नात दिसणारी बाकी सर्व दृश्ये वास्तवात इथेच कुठेतरी असली पाहिजेत. सूर्य मावळत होता. वेळ फारच कमी होता.

गाडी स्टार्ट करून परत उलटा निघालो - वेल्ह्याच्या दिशेने. तसेही आजचा मुक्काम परत मढेघाटामध्येच होता आणि सकाळी लवकर उठून खाली कोंकणांत सुद्धा उतरायचे होते. त्यामुळेच आजचा हाताशी असलेला सूर्यास्तापूर्वीचा वेळ, माझ्या स्वप्नांतील वास्तवाचा शोध घेण्यासाठी सत्कारणी लावणे भाग होते.

केळद मागे टाकले. एका विस्तीर्ण पठारावर थांबलो. समोर अजस्र तोरणा. सायंकाळची लाल किरणे अंगावर घेत अस्ताव्यस्त पहुडलेला. फक्त मी गडाच्या पाठीमागच्या अंगाला असल्याकारणाने, तोरण्याचा 'बुधला' मला नाकासमोर दिसत होता. फारच मोहक. परत एकदा खात्री पटली की स्वप्नात दिसणारा गड अजून कोणताही नसून तोरणाच होता, फक्त पाठीमागच्या अंगाने दिसल्या कारणाने मी तो ओळखू शकत नव्हतो. ह्या अंगाने कधी तोरण्याचे छायाचित्र पण पाहण्यात आले नव्हते. खरंच जे घडत होते, सर्वच अद्भुत होते. पण ह्या बॅकड्रॉप मध्ये एक कमी होती. पौर्णिमेचा चंद्र!! खरंच जे स्वप्नात पाहिले तेच दिसेल का? लगबगीने बॅकपॅक मधून GPS काढला. Moon Phase चेक केली. आणि तीनताड उडालोच. 'Full Moon Phase' आता ह्याला काय म्हणावे? योगायोग?

GPS च्या सांगण्यानुसार Moon Rise नुकताच झाला होता. पण चांदोबा अजून तोरण्यापलीकडे होता. 'पिक्चर अभी बाकी हे मेरे दोस्त' असे म्हणत खाली बैठक मारली. सूर्य अजूनही पुरता मावळला नव्हता. तोरण्यावरची लाल छटा अधिकच गडद झाली. आणि काहीच सेकंदात चांदोबाने तोरण्यामागून डोके वर काढले. तो उगवता मोठ्ठा पांढरा गोळा, मावळत्या सूर्याच्या छटेने गुलाबी वाटत होता. हेच हेच ते दृश्य. आज स्वप्न सत्यात उतरले. इतके दिवस सह्याद्री मला साद घालत होता. मी आज प्रतिसाद दिला. माझा अजूनही विश्वास बसत नाही ह्या गोष्टीवर. खरंच अद्भुत. मन हलके झाले होते. ह्या विश्वात, ह्या निसर्गात मनुष्यप्राण्याचे स्थान काय? हे हे हे! क्षुद्रतेची लाट अंगावरून सरकली. हळूहळू सर्व विचार गळून पडले. राग, लोभ, क्रोध, आसक्ती, मोह ह्या सर्वांतून मी हलकेच वर उचलला गेलो. स्पिरिच्युअल अपलिफ़्ट. मी फक्त तोरण्याकडे अचंबित होऊन पाहतं सत्याचा अनुभव घेत होतो. स्थिर आणि दिग्ड्मुढ.

सूर्य पूर्णपणे अस्तास गेला. चंद्रप्रकाशाने आता भूमी उजळली. मी भानावर आलो. गाडी घेऊन परत केळद मध्ये पोहोचलो. एक मोठा कॅनभरून पाणी घेतले. मुक्कामपोस्ट मढेघाट. टेंट लावून खिचडी शिजवायला टाकली. दुसऱ्या दिवशी सकाळी लवकर मढेघाटातून खाली कोंकणात उतरायचे होते. झोप लागलीच नाही. परत विचारचक्र सुरु.

मढेघाट हे फक्त निमित्त होते का? निसर्गाचा चमत्कार पाहण्यासाठी? माझ्याकडे ह्या प्रश्नांची उत्तरे नाहीत. आणि कधीच मिळणार नाहीत. काही प्रश्न अनुत्तरितच चांगले वाटतात. ज्या ठिकाणी माणसाची विचार करायची क्षमता संपते त्या ठिकाणी मनुष्य वाटेल त्या गोष्टींवर विश्वास ठेवायला तयार होतो. ह्यालाच अंधविश्वास असे म्हणतात. माझ्याबाबतीत जे घडले ते अद्भुत नक्कीच होते. पण माझे वैचारिक मन आजही कोड्यात पडते. मनाचे समाधान म्हणून मी ह्या घटनेला योगायोग म्हणेन. पण निसर्ग असाच कधीतरी कुठल्यातरी रूपांत आपल्या वैयक्तिक जीवनात डोकावतो आणि 'मी' पणा नाहीसा करून जातो. कोण मी? माझी लायकी काय? This experience made me feel so inferior and such a small part of existence. निसर्गा बद्दल चा माझा आदर आता अधिकच दृढ झाला आहे. माझा मढेघाटाचा long awaited शोध एका अविस्मरणीय अनुभवाबरोबर पूर्ण झाला होता.

Alone

Early Morning, I am awakened from a peaceful sleep as a crow makes his first statement for the day through a nearby tree. I sit still in the cold darkness in my sleeping bag, listening to the other early risers of the deep forest coming to life. This is the second day on my three-day solo trek, and today is much colder than that of yesterday. Opening the eyes, I spot a glimpse of light on the far horizon, dark blue and black everywhere else. I close the zipper of my sleeping bag and drift back to sleep.

Once again I am awakened, except this time by the day light. As I rise from my bag I am greeted by a smell of cool, sweet mountain air and ashen wood from last night's fire. It is another sunny day, and my muscles ache as I crouch down to build a fire for tea. While the fire breaks and crackles, I take a short walk near the ridge to have breathtaking morning view and to say ‘Hello’ and ‘Good Morning’ to the ranges. On the way back, I spot a deer on a hill just moments before he spots me. “How can anyone kill you?” I say softly to myself as I reach to my backpack for my camera. He notices me, and runs swiftly up and over the hill. I snap a picture of the empty woods. “Another great picture!”

I boil some water, and mix the tea ingredients. Over to cups of tea and a Maggie,….. my breakfast menu. I plan my days hike in an effort to avoid the pain of packing up my belongings again and putting them on my back. Today's hike takes me mostly downhill, past a large stream and then across a highway. Once past the highway, I will travel steeply up a 500-feet cliff and then meander over and through small hills and valleys until I reach my next shelter. While enjoying the tea, I take the map out to estimate the kilometers and time. I count the contour lines. It is all so important, and enjoyable. I wait for more time enjoying more cups of tea.
Its time to go!

Packing at home for hikes is an enthusiastic task. But when you spend the entire day in the woods and have literally moved every item to a new location within your backpack, you are bound to get frustrated. Where is my damned toothbrush? I know I packed about 200 matches and a lighter, yet all I see is flint! But can’t help. I can’t afford to get frustrated, especially when I’m alone in the woods. Adaptability is the only thing I can do.
Now I travel speedily down a long, windy, downhill trail with the smell of dewy green leaves all around me. Melodious voices of various birds come to my ears. The sun has got much stronger, so I stop at nearby brook to take my jacket off and tie it around my pack. Feels like great time to drink the purest form of water. “Ah...” , ice cold just like I like it. I top up my bottles as well.

Once again I hit the trail and reach the highway.

What a feeling! Cars zipping by, with people in a mad dash…..are speeding towards their destination. And here I am, standing perfectly still, where I need to be. They look at me as they drive by. I imagine what they wonder, “Where is he coming from?” or “Do you think he needs something?” It amuses me as I wait for a break in traffic to cross.

I see myself behind the doors of the car. I remember the days I passed by the backpackers. I got a feeling of being at a wrong place. That I was missing something so monumentally important by not being out on the trail. As a backpacker, I feel proud.

Now I have crossed the highway and I begin climbing the steep rocks. Negotiating each step as I focus from ledge to ledge. I reach a point where looking around my arm I can see those same cars zipping by like matchbox cars on a plastic track below me. Now the wind has picked up as well.

I am standing on a small rock ledge several hundred feet above ground level and have no choice but to push myself up to the next small ledge above me. Halfway through the process, my arms give up. I remove my backpack and try to put it on to a wider ledge above my right. The motion of the pack pulls my left leg clear off the ledge below and I barely able to maintain my balance. I manage to put my backpack on that ledge and try to catch a hold of grip on a nearby rock projection. The whole process causes a twist in my right arm. A feeling of heat rises within my body. Unwilling to die, I manage to reach a safer place. Now I am able to pull my body to the next ledge... where I will sit for half an hour.

Sitting on a rock I watch the breathtaking view of the ranges around and smooth highway. My body is pretty exhausted and heart beating fast as never before, I take sips of energy drink. I recall the countless reasons why you shouldn't hike alone. Hiking with a partner is wise and safe. But there are times when doing it alone allow the deepest self-reflection possible.

With refreshed mind and body, I look back at the remaining rock patch. Ready to climb again………
And so my hike continues through the meandering mountains, and to the shelter I reach safely. To my pleasant surprise, I find a trail register where I jot down this story in my sloppy handwriting. A new fire is lit and Daal Khichadi is on the menu. The lights fade and the crickets awaken. It is early morning for them. They wake from their restful sleep as I make my last statement of the day... "Good night."

Rafting

Visualize the boat's brow cutting through the swirling, surging water; the sun sparkling on the frothy waves, making tiny rainbows; the abrupt lurch of the craft, as the surging waves suddenly shift direction. The adrenalin is pumping, all senses alert, with nature working overtime to orchestrate a thrill you'll never forget. That's what most people think a raft trip entails, but there's much more going on. Your connection with the other rafters forms a matchless adventure that won't be forgotten.

Rafting down the Kundalika River on the rushing from Kundalika Valley near Tamhini, down towards Konkan strip is exciting - no doubt about it. It combines thrilling rapids with quiet stretches, where rafters can take in the spectacular mountain scenery and deep forests. Their mental cameras capture images that will be studied over and over later, once they return home.

There's one thing even more crucial than the water for making your adventure tour a treasured event. It's the other people. Some you bring along, like family, friends or group. You may think you know each other already, but the time spent on the river forever alters the way you'll relate back home. That's the real pay-off from a wilderness adventure. The guides and other rafters also play essential roles in the total experience.

Unlike taking a bus or a train, the goal isn't to arrive at the destination. Instead, getting there is ALL the fun. So there's no hurry. Everyone along plays their part in moving the boats, and reacts to what the river throws at them. Each person needs to develop their sense of teamwork and reliance on each other. The emotional exhilaration amps up even more because of the sharing involved. Facing physical challenges together builds trust and confidence in each other, in a matter of hours.

Scientists have discovered that the intensity of an emotional experience permanently alters the way a person remembers it. Emotionally charged experiences are filed differently in the brain than everyday ones are. Later, they're recalled with vivid detail, without losing clarity over time. Recalling even a small part of the event brings the full force of experience back. That's why they're called "flashbulb memories."

When people go through such powerful experiences together, they relate to each other in new ways. It's certainly a step away from their day-in, day-out routines. That's a major reason why a wilderness adventure like whitewater rafting does more for those who take the trip than a casual vacation would. They develop new ways to relate to nature and each other. Rafters tell me they arranged the trip to get away from the TV and the cell phone. But they're pleased to find that the river is the tonic for much of what's stressful for them.

Even when they get home, those newly-forged ways of relating influence the way people treat each other. Without exception, they find the experience delivered in ways that they hadn't expected. I'm often told that what they experienced during whitewater rafting was the highlight of their vacation.” We visited all the other attractions, we saw all the sights. Nothing comes close!"

The benefits that rafters receive don't stop when the trip is over. We've all heard the phrase about walking a mile in someone else's shoes. That does help to understand the experiences of others with fresh awareness. But I think that greater value comes in understanding yourself better. To step into someone else's shoes, you must temporarily step out of your own. That breaks a lot of habits and familiar assumptions. Then when you return to your own shoes, you can see aspects of your life that you usually overlook because they're so unbroken.

Taking a wilderness adventure is a walk in another pair of shoes. And those people who shared that intensely emotional adventure with you took the same mind-stretching trek. That stays with you for the long haul.